Day 10: Escape from Hanoi's heat

• From - To: Cat Cat Galerie d’Art – Cinnamon Ecolodge

• Distance: 123 km, 3:01h

• Routes: QL40 – AH14 – QL279

• Accommodation: Cinnamon Ecolodge, Bungalow with Patio with A/C 39 Eur per night, including breakfast

Last night, before heading to bed, I took a brief stroll around Sa Pa, even though it was raining continuously. After the long drive from Mu Chang Cai, I found myself yearning for a relaxing neck and back massage.

Sa Pa is a mountain resort, historically a retreat for the French during colonial times when they sought respite from the scorching heat of Hanoi. They discovered Sa Pa, where temperatures were significantly cooler than in the capital. Here, the French erected hotels and other buildings, lending Sa Pa a distinctly French feel. The town exudes a French aura, further accentuated by the enticing smells of coffee and fresh French baguettes.

This morning, the rain had ceased, and as the clouds dispersed slowly, the sun began to gently warm the air from the early morning temperature of 18 degrees Celsius. At the wonderful French-style Cat Cat Galerie d'Art hotel, I enjoyed a genuine European breakfast, consisting of an omelet with fried bacon, a croissant, chocolate-filled rolls, and more. After wandering through the hotel’s terraces, I decided that this is the only place I would stay on my next visit to Sa Pa. (Tip: Opt for a more expensive Deluxe room and request accommodation on either the 7th or 8th floor – you’ll understand why and won’t regret it.)

I took my time leaving, dedicating the hours until noon, when I had to return the room key, to explore Sa Pa in the morning. If not for the heavy clouds in the sky that threatened another downpour, I would have ascended Fansipan Mountain – the highest peak in Southeast Asia, piercing the sky at 3113 meters – by cable car. Weather, especially in the mountains, is unpredictable. However, I wasn’t disheartened and left Fansipan, known for its awe-inspiring views, for another visit.

Having covered a thousand kilometers since the start of my journey ten days ago, it was time to perform maintenance on my Winner: changing the engine oil, tightening and lubricating the chain, and checking the brakes and coolant level. I knew I needed to find a garage marked 'Xe May', where local mechanics can not only change oil but also perform more extensive repairs on motorbikes and scooters. I easily located 'Xe May' on the outskirts of town, where for 120K VND (approximately 4.70 EUR), they changed the oil, adjusted, and lubricated the chain in just 15 minutes. No other repairs were needed – my Winner was dependable and ready for another thousand kilometers or more.

Two routes lead to my next destination, Ban Dao. I immediately dismissed CT05, a highway, and chose the slightly slower AH14 route on Google Maps. From Sa Pa, the first leg of the journey is along QL4D to Lao Cai, a city I merely passed through without much to note. The journey continued for 70 km on AH14 through a succession of towns and villages, followed by the final 18 km to Cinnamon Ecolodge on a narrower and quieter QL279, meandering through Vietnam's lush countryside.

I had selected Cinnamon Ecolodge based on online recommendations. Upon arrival, I immediately realized I was in a unique place – surrounded by a cinnamon forest. Greeted with a cup of tea, the hostess led me to a cozy bungalow with a palm leaf roof and a terrace overlooking the cinnamon forest and distant mountains. She shared that the village consisted of several homesteads inhabited by relatives for many years, with cinnamon cultivation as their primary occupation. They plant and nurture the trees for five years before thinning the forest twice a year. The bark is peeled from the harvested trunks, the outer layer scraped off with a special knife, and the fragrant bark strips are sun-dried. The drying process turns the bark brown and causes it to curl into hard tubes. These are then cut into 5-10 cm sticks, ground into cinnamon powder, or sold as is.

The hostess invited me to dine with her family that evening. I had a couple of hours to explore the jungle and the surroundings. Walking through village paths in Vietnam is essential, as the overwhelming richness of impressions makes time fly unnoticed. I arrived late for dinner, but the family patiently waited for me. We sat on the floor, tasting various dishes and toasting with rice vodka – the “happy water”. Evenings like this with locals are an invaluable experience, so I highly recommend choosing homestays for accommodation. While not all hosts will invite you to dine with their family, the chances are much higher than being invited to dine with a hotel owner.