Day 12: Incomprehensible Natural Beauty

The classic Ha Giang loop begins on the QL4C road in Ha Giang, ascending 73 km northward. It then turns eastward on QL4C, winding another 70 km to the town of Dong Van, where the first day of the loop concludes. Danny suggested thinking outside the loop – to drive just 9 km on QL4C and then turn right onto an unnamed road. This road climbs and winds, repeatedly offering stunning views along the right side of the Song Lo river valley. It's a delightful 40 km journey on a narrow asphalt road, far from the crowds of motorbikers, encountering only a few groups that neither obstruct the road nor the breathtaking mountain panoramas. After two hours of enjoyment, the road descends into a broad valley. Here, you turn right and continue on DT176. This road is less traveled, with sections of deteriorating asphalt and potholes filled with stones. I was surprised at these poor road conditions, wondering why Danny hadn't mentioned them. But with each turn and ascent, I realized this might be the most magnificent road I've ever seen! Mountains, valleys, passes, and expansive, deep panoramas, climbing to heights where only pines grow. There was so much variety in the scenery that it overwhelmed my senses. At one point, I stopped to eat amidst the clouds, but as I reminisced about what I had seen and where I had traveled, my food grew cold. The joy was so overwhelming that I was torn between eating and turning back to relive the experience of that incredible nature. But, I decided against returning. The remaining journey to Du Gia, a village in the Dong Van karst plateau valley, filled my mind with unforgettable impressions.

I arrived at Du Gia Field View Guesthouse as the day was ending. The host awaited me, showed me to my room on the second floor of the stilted house, and invited me to dine with his wife and father. Delighted by the invitation, I freshened up and went for a walk, as dinner was still an hour and a half away. I wandered where my eyes led, climbing a path to a hilltop where another guesthouse stood, with an outdoor terrace offering a panoramic view of the valley. This place, named Du Gia Coffee View Homestay, served Vietnamese coffee. Sitting on the terrace, I savored the coffee and the evening view. Later, I learned that the hilltop guesthouse belonged to the owner's sister. For those seeking a more secluded stay, I highly recommend Du Gia Coffee View Homestay.

For dinner, I enjoyed rice grown in nearby fields, pork and chicken from a neighboring barn, and we toasted with 'happy water' made from corn, not rice. Vietnam, a country of 54 ethnic groups, each boasts its culinary traditions, including unique recipes for strong spirits. The host, struggling a bit with English, shared that he had started the guesthouse only eight months ago and was still awaiting more reservations. The guesthouse can accommodate 25 people, but I was the sole guest that day. After reading the description on booking.com, I offered to rewrite it to be more attractive, which I did. However, the booking.com customer service in Vietnam (or perhaps globally) is somewhat inefficient, as they struggled to update the old and new descriptions even a month later.

Dinner didn't last more than a couple of hours, as it was the young family's baby's bedtime. Loud karaoke songs from a nearby guesthouse ceased just after ten, respecting the rule against noise post-ten o'clock. This was a relief, as I'm not particularly fond of karaoke. It seems karaoke is integral to Vietnamese social gatherings, whether birthdays, weddings, or casual get-togethers. Most people sing off-key, but that doesn't deter them – the worse the singing, the louder the cheer. Of course, this is just my personal observation, and I might be wrong. But since I'm writing about my experiences in Vietnam, I'm sharing them candidly.

• From - To: Be‘s Home & Tours – Du Gia Field View Homestay

• Distance: 93,1 km, 3:01h

• Routes: QL34 – QL4C – DT181 – DT176

• Accommodation: Du Gia Field View Homestay, Double Room with Mountain View with fan 7 Eur per night, including breakfast