Day 11: The Start of Ha Giang Loop

• From - To: Cinnamon Ecolodge – Be‘s Home & Tours

• Distance: 108 km, 2:21h

• Routes: QL278 – QL2

• Accommodation: Be‘s Home & Tours, Deluxe Double Room with Balcony with A/C 21 Eur per night, including breakfast

I drove from Cinnamon Ecolodge to Ha Giang with only a few stops for stretching and water. The route was easy, lacking distinct scenic beauty. On the QL2 section, there was an increase in bus traffic, demanding careful overtaking only on clear straight stretches. A frustrating habit of local drivers is to cut corners or overtake without regard for oncoming traffic, expecting others to yield to avoid collisions. Therefore, one must always expect the worst and always (!) pull over to the roadside.

Ha Giang is the city where the renowned Northern Vietnam Ha Giang Loop begins.

After traversing 1226 kilometers over 11 days on my Winner, having witnessed and experienced so much of Vietnam's charm and delights, it was hard to imagine what could top those experiences. The answer: the Ha Giang Loop – an epic 3-4 day motorbike journey through Northern Vietnam's most stunning mountain roads. This route is popularly advertised online, in Vietnamese tourism promotions, and brochures. Consequently, the Ha Giang Loop is well-known and appealing, attracting hundreds, sometimes thousands, of adventurers on motorized two-wheelers. They typically arrive by bus from Hanoi, rent scooters, and embark on the Loop either independently or in large groups of about 20, guided by tour leaders. For those uneasy about riding a motorbike, there's an option to travel with a driver, sitting behind a local on a scooter, holding on with one hand, and continuously photographing the surroundings with a mobile phone in the other. This is known as the Ha Giang Loop Easy Rider. While some enjoy this mode of travel, it wasn't for me.

The city of Ha Giang itself isn't particularly special. As Danny, the Spanish owner of Be's Guesthouse, explained, Ha Giang doesn't offer much – it's a small city, with limited daytime dining options as most eateries open in the late afternoon. I had imagined a city bustling with tourists on scooters, but they mostly gather near the bus station, arriving early from Hanoi and immediately beginning their Loop adventure. I showed Danny the Ha Giang Loop route I had planned. He criticized it, pointing to a sign on the wall: "Think outside the loop." He explained that everyone travels the classic loop, which is often crowded, with limited parking space at viewpoints. Moreover, several police checkpoints on the classic route often demand exorbitant fines. Danny kindly rearranged my route, advising alternative roads and destinations I hadn’t considered while planning in front of my computer in Vilnius. Having booked accommodations with free cancellation on booking.com, I adjusted my upcoming three-night stays according to his suggestions.

I arrived in Ha Giang early – the clock showed only 14:30. I wandered around the nearly deserted town, found a local Pho Bo eatery, and, while eating, adjusted my map for the coming days' itinerary. Time flies when you're busy with a mobile phone, no matter what you're doing. I returned to Be's home by six and asked Danny for suggestions on what else to do in Ha Giang. He nonchalantly recommended a massage, directing me to the Yen Bien Luxury hotel across the river. The full-body Vietnamese massage there was one of the best, costing 370K VND (14.55 EUR) as far as I remember.

There wasn't much else to do in Ha Giang, so I read a book and went to bed. A tip for those wanting to travel to Ha Giang from Hanoi by bus: choose a night bus with sleeper berths. Although I didn't have this experience, those who have say it's convenient and budget-friendly (you save on accommodation costs by sleeping en route). Contact Danny at Be's Home & Tours for organizing your 3-4 day Ha Giang Loop trip. It's part of his business model, hence the 'Home' and 'Tours' in Be's name. Danny will suggest a different, superior route than the usual one – with fewer tourists, magnificent views, and stays in guesthouses offering family dinners, 'happy water', and karaoke, if desired.