Day 17: The Most Romantic Sunset

• From - To: An Homestay & Hostel – Lan Rung Homestay

• Distance: 82,1 km, 1:55h

• Routes: QL3 – DT206

• Accommodation: Lan Rung Homestay, King Room with A/C 21 Eur per night, including breakfast

Back home in Lithuania, as I planned my Northern Vietnam trip, Ban Gioc was marked as a must-visit destination on my itinerary. Having experienced the awe-inspiring Iguazu Falls on both the Argentine and Brazilian sides, I hold waterfalls in high esteem as one of nature's most magnificent wonders. Watching the powerful water cascades, listening to the thundering sprays, and seeing the fine mist lit up by the sun, creating a magical aura, is captivating. Situated along the Vietnam-China border, Ban Gioc is Asia's most beautiful waterfall, or rather waterfalls, as it consists of the main Quay Son river waterfall and several smaller ones branching from the river.

The journey to the Ban Gioc waterfalls along the stunning DT206 road meanders through karst mountains and quaint valleys, carefully tended by Vietnamese farmers. I drove at a leisurely pace, pausing often to soak in the millennia-formed natural beauty. At one spot, I veered off onto a side road, ascended a few dozen meters, and paused to enjoy the breathtaking panorama for about half an hour. I had bought a dragon fruit at a roadside stand the previous day. Now, I pulled it out of my backpack, sliced it in half, and savored this red, juicy, sweet fruit. The variety that costs a premium in Lithuania tastes somewhat soapy, but in Vietnam, this exotic fruit is fresh off the bush, either picked that day or the day before. Two hefty dragon fruits cost me 50K VND (2 EUR) – a euro apiece. For such a treat, I would willingly pay even 10 EUR, but this, after all, is Vietnam!

The dragon fruit quelled my hunger, and I continued my unhurried journey, helmet open. The day slipped away unnoticed, and I reached Lan Rung Homestay just shy of an hour before sunset. The hostess informed me that dinner would be in two hours – ample time to explore the village. After a quick shower and change, I strolled for an hour and then stopped at a beer shop. Beside me lay a freshly harvested rice field, the sun neared the horizon, and in the distance, the slow burning of hay sent up smoke, giving the landscape an otherworldly hue. I took a seat on the rice field's terrace, exchanged smiles with the Vietnamese laboring in the fields, and relished the moment until the sun fully set. It was, without a doubt, the most romantic sunset of my Vietnam journey.

The dinner was simple yet delicious. The hostess brought out a plate of grilled pork belly pieces, a plate of Bok Choy in garlic sauce, and a bowl of rice. Incidentally, Bok Choy is my favorite green vegetable; I love it stir-fried with garlic and oyster sauce, and it also fits perfectly in soup (Bok Choy is its American name, while in Vietnam it's referred to as Cai Thia or Cai Chip). The meal, accompanied by a can of Saigon beer, cost me 120K VND (4.75 EUR). I shared a few toasts with an animated group of local tourists who were keenly draining their 'happy water.' About half an hour later, the host brought out a large speaker, and the night turned into a karaoke party. I discreetly retreated to my room, penned down the day's experiences, and, as the karaoke faded away post-ten, drifted off into a peaceful sleep in the cozy bed.