Day 19: Dust and Noise from Road Construction

• From - To: DH Homestay Cao Bang – Hoang Nguyen Homestay Ba Be

• Distance: 90,5 km, 2:18h

• Routes: QL3 – QL279 – DT254

• Accommodation: Hoang Nguyen Homestay Ba Be, Double Room with Balcony with A/C 10 Eur per night, breakfast extra 2 Eur

DH Homestay in Cao Bang did not offer breakfast, but the hostess suggested I try a Bahn Mi with egg at a café run by a neighbor across the street. Paired with coffee, the Bahn Mi was only 45K VND (1.80 EUR) and so tasty that I nearly ordered a second one.

The journey from Cao Bang to Ba Be National Park was nothing extraordinary. My only stop was not for scenic views, but for lunch to enjoy another Bahn Mi. I had been craving one since breakfast and was delighted to find a spot in a village. It was every bit as good as the one I had in the morning. This delicious fresh French baguette sandwich cost just 20K VND (0.80 EUR). In comparison, a similar meal at Copenhagen Airport is priced at 10 EUR (!). After a trip in Vietnam, adjusting back to European prices can take some time.

I added Ba Be Lake to my route after reading several online recommendations. The lake, formed 200 million years ago, is nestled among limestone cliffs and rolling hills lush with dense vegetation. The highlight is a motorboat ride to An Ma Temple on an island and to take in the park's views. A two-hour boat excursion costs 600K VND (23.60 EUR). It may seem costly for one person, but the price per person decreases as the group size increases. I reckon the boat can comfortably fit about 10 passengers.

Now, looking back on my visit to Ba Be Lake and considering whether I would return, I find myself leaning towards 'probably not.' Perhaps it's because the drive from Cao Bang to Ba Be didn’t leave a strong impression, or maybe it was the 5–6 km stretch around the lake under heavy construction – making travel challenging, with trucks and tractors stirring up dust and noise. The view from the balcony of Hoang Nguyen Homestay, overlooking the mountains and lake in the distance, was marred by dust clouds and the sound of street repairs, spoiling the otherwise idyllic setting. Of course, the construction won’t last forever, and peace will eventually return to Ba Be. But in the context of nearly three weeks of experiences, this location lacked something compelling enough to draw me back. If you're planning a trip around Northern Vietnam and have limited time, skipping Ba Be Lake could save you a day."