Day 16: Not All Roads are Passable

• From - To: Bao Lac Sunny Homestay – An Homestay & Hostel

• Distance: 126 km, 3:21h

• Route: QL34

• Accommodation: An Homestay & Hostel, Standad King Room with A/C 11 Eur per night, no breakfast

I had planned to begin my trip on an unnamed road leading to the Khau Coc Cha mountain pass, renowned for its serpentine turns unlike any I had seen before, and then continue on DT204 to Cao Bang. I struggled with Google Maps, baffled as to why it wouldn’t let me plot such a route. I tried marking points on the unnamed road, but to no avail. Eventually, I inquired with a staff member at the guesthouse – was there an issue with that road? Indeed, she replied, a massive rainstorm a week earlier had triggered a significant landslide...

Landslides are frequent in Northern Vietnam. This part of Vietnam experiences a rainy season from May to October, during which the rains can be so intense that the clayey mountain slopes give way, obstructing roads. Traveling in October, the rains had already subsided, but I encountered dozens of landslides or their remnants. Sometimes, they even alter your planned route. However, there's no need for excessive concern. Before setting off each morning, it's wise to ask guesthouse or hotel hosts about road conditions. They interact with many travelers, follow the news, and listen to the radio, so they can offer valuable insights and save you time on your journey. Also, bear in mind that roads post-landslide may be passable but extremely hazardous. Most motorbike accidents occur on roads under repair or those affected by landslides. It's beneficial to have this information and, if possible, to circumvent unsuitable roads.

I postponed the Khau Coc Cha mountain pass for another time. Starting from Bao Lac, I took QL34 to Cao Bang. Expecting to encounter numerous buses and trucks, I was pleasantly surprised to find the road nearly empty on a Saturday. I made stops at various scenic overlooks – there were plenty with stunning panoramas – and after a 4.5-hour drive, I arrived at An Homestay & Hostel in Cao Bang. Google Maps had estimated 3:20 hours of driving time, but the journey took over an hour longer. It's important when planning daily routes to add an extra hour, sometimes even 2 or 3, to Google's estimated time. Otherwise, you risk having to drive in the dark, something to be avoided in Vietnam.

The guesthouse owner showed me to my Standard King Room, which was furnished as well as any 100 EUR room in Europe. Large, spacious, clean, and stylish, all for just 11 EUR! Seeing that I was satisfied with the room, the owner began to inquire about my background, my origins, my reasons for visiting, and how he could assist me. I asked what the locals eat in Cao Bang around five o'clock. He recommended a noodle soup similar to Pho Bo but with duck – Pho Vit – and pointed me to a great spot just a few hundred meters away. He also mentioned that from seven o'clock on Saturday evenings, the main street in the city center is closed to traffic, becoming a lively spot where locals gather to enjoy Lau or grilled dishes, with so many options it's hard to choose.

Having recently savored a delicious Pho Vit for 35K VND (1.40 EUR), I wasn't particularly hungry, so before exploring the main street, I opted for a foot massage. It's an absolute delight, especially when a 40-minute session costs only 200K VND (7.90 EUR). Often, I debate between a full-body massage and a foot massage. Most times, the foot massage wins. The menu typically lists 'Feet massage,' but they massage not only the feet but also the calves and even the thighs. Moreover, foot massages usually begin with a 5-minute neck massage. Your feet are first soaked in hot water (sometimes tea), you recline in a comfortable chair, and during the treatment, you can use your phone, catch up on news, or call family and friends (and perhaps make them a bit envious by showing them your pampered feet).

After the sublime massage, feeling rejuvenated, I strolled to the main street and ordered three grilled meat skewers with green vegetables, spicy sauce, and a cold Saigon beer. The total came to 65K VND (2.59 EUR). The street was abuzz with a festive vibe – a choir sang in a park across the way, music played, and a dance group performed, swirling and waving their arms. A crowd of around fifty spectators stood in a semicircle, while others constantly moved along the street. There wasn't a single foreigner in sight. On Friday evenings, Cao Bang transforms into a celebration for the locals, not for tourists.