Day 2: For Another Time

• From - To: Trang An Viewpoint Homestay - Trang An Viewpoint Homestay

• Distance: 32,1 km, 1:06h

• Places: Trang An Grottoes, Hoa Lu, Mua Cave, Ninh Binh

• Accommodation: Trang An Viewpoint Homestay, Superior King Room with A/C 17 Eur per night, including breakfast (second night)

Yesterday, I arrived amidst a tropical downpour, waited for the rain to stop, then jumped back on my motorbike and returned to Trang An Viewpoint Homestay in the darkness of the night. Only the next morning did I understand why these guesthouses include 'Viewpoint' in their name. After rising from bed and swimming in the cozy pool, I enjoyed Bun Cha prepared by the hosts for breakfast, and climbed up a karst hill located right outside my room. I was amazed – the surrounding hills, reminiscent of the fantastical Pandoran nature seen in Avatar, swamps and rice fields pulsating with heat and humidity, were being tended by locals from early morning.

Spending about half an hour soaking in the breathtaking scenery, I got on my Winner and began the day’s adventures at the Trang An Grottoes. Unfortunately, due to the heavy rains, the grottoes (caves) were inaccessible, but rowing a boat for a few hours among the karst hills was a genuine delight. The floating pagoda and several temples along the shore (stopping at them is part of the tour) were impressive. A boat ticket for one person costs 200K VND (7.90 EUR).

The Trang An region is home to dozens of ancient Chinese temples, attracting numerous tourists from Hanoi by bus. They come here not only for the temples – Trang An is akin to Ha Long Bay, but with fields instead of bay waters, shimmering rivers, canals, and cozy settlements nestled in tropical humidity. Those who do not wish (or cannot afford) an expensive cruise in Ha Long Bay come here to Trang An.

As I observed the sky, I realized that rain was imminent again. My itinerary included visits to (1) Hoa Lu, the 10th-century capital of Vietnam, and (2) Mua Cave – a valley 5 km from Tam Coc, ideal for a few hours of walking and ascending 500 stone steps to a stunning viewpoint. However, due to the looming rain, I returned to the guesthouse. I managed a quick swim in the pool before the heavens opened up, pouring rain for two solid hours. When the rain eased and the area slightly dried up, the sun began to descend. I realized that Hoa Lu and Mua Cave would have to be saved for another time, so I got on my Winner and headed to a barbecue restaurant in Ninh Binh that I had spotted on Google Maps. It’s a place where you pay 136K VND (5.35 EUR) to load up on all the raw meat, seafood, mushrooms, and vegetables you want, grilling them yourself on a charcoal grill in the middle of the table. Beer and other beverages are extra, but at 20K VND (0.80 EUR) for a cold can of Bia Hoi, it's a bargain. I ate well, enjoyed another perfect massage at the same place as the day before, and returned to the guesthouse satisfied and ready for sleep.