Day Before the Trip

• Accommodation: Tabalo Hostel Hanoi, Bed in 4-Bed Dormitory Room with A/C for 6 EUR per day, breakfast not included

This was my third time in Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam. Yet, I've only experienced a fraction of this vibrant and dynamic city, where ancient history coexists with modern culture. Hanoi bustles with the energy of scooters and street vendors, which seems to be tempered by the numerous lakes interspersed among modern buildings, French colonial architecture, and centuries-old temples.

This time in Hanoi, my schedule included one evening post-flight, one full day, and one morning. For a brief stay like this, it's best to stay in the maze-like Old Quarter.

I did something I'd never done before: I booked two nights in an inexpensive hostel, where guests sleep in bunk beds in rooms shared by 4-8 or more people. I didn’t want to isolate myself in a hotel room; interacting with people who might be traveling similarly was more appealing.

Through Booking.com, I reserved a spot in Tabalo Hostel Hanoi. I chose a 4-bed room for just 150K VND (5.90 EUR) per night, complete with air conditioning, comfortable beds, fresh white linens, and a clean communal bathroom with two showers.

As expected, I immediately befriended a trio of young people from Ho Chi Minh. They, too, had arrived in Hanoi that evening and were heading to Ha Giang early the next morning on a 6-hour bus ride. They planned to rent motorbikes there and embark on a 3-day journey around the Ha Giang loop. Ha Giang city and its famous loop were also on my itinerary—I'd be there on the eleventh day of my trip. We shared our planned routes, exchanged points on Google Maps for beautiful spots on the Ha Giang loop, and shared stories as far as their English permitted. We then opened cans of Ha Noi beer, and as we neared the bottom, one guy raised a toast: "To Lenin!"

"What? - I grinned, responding as if to a joke. - To that murderer whose mummy lies in Moscow?"

"Yeah, to Lenin!" - he looked at me as if I were also joking.

I don't think I finished my beer. The group apologized, saying they had to get up very early, and went to sleep. I then strolled out into the night-time Old Quarter. I mulled over the young man's comment about Lenin for a while. I turned into one of the many foot massage parlors (the best thing for your feet after twenty hours of flying!). That night, I forgot about Lenin... until later when he was mentioned again.

I slept soundly at Tabalo Hostel my first night. I didn't hear my roommates rise at four in the morning and head to the bus station. It was raining outside, so I decided to review the first few days of my routes once more.

Online sources advised starting the journey from Hanoi very early in the morning. The earlier, the better, like at five or six in the morning, before the city streets become congested with local traffic. Starting this early, you can cross the city in less than an hour, and beyond the city, the scooter traffic is less intimidating.

But my plan was different. Firstly, I wanted to experience real Hanoi scooter chaos. Secondly, I wanted to sleep well the second night, wake up calmly, and pack my things neatly. Then, after picking up my Honda Winner X from Happy Zip Motorbikes, I would learn how to secure my items to the motorbike's luggage rack. Thirdly, I intended to choose the motorbike one day in advance, rent it the next day, and start my journey.

By renting the motorbike the same day, I saved one day's rent, which is 250K VND (9.80 EUR). That’s enough for five (if 50K each) or even seven (if 35K each) servings of Pho Bo!

On my second night at Tabalo Hostel, I slept alone in the 4-person room. On one hand, great, I had a personal room for 5.90 EUR! On the other hand, I would have enjoyed some company. But boredom is impossible in Hanoi. I went for another walk, enjoyed another foot massage, and sat down at a tiny plastic table in the Bia Hoi Corner. Fresh draft beer here is just 10K VND (0.39 EUR) per glass. A 0.4-liter glass for less than half a euro... I remember in 2018 it was 7K, so 10K is already a hike! I recorded a short video and sent it to my friends in Vilnius, much to their annoyance.