Day 7: On a Dragon's Back

• From - To: Lu Homestay Ta Xua – Phong Lan Hotel

• Distance: 104 km, 2:49h

• Routes: DT112 – QL37 – AH13

• Accommodation: Phong Lan Hotel (search Khách Sạn Phong Lan on Google) Single Room with A/C 10 Eur per night, no breakfast

Mornings in Ta Xua are stunning. As the sun rises, clouds gradually dissipate, unveiling the magnificent panorama of valleys and mountains. I went out for breakfast on the main and only street of the waking cafes and restaurants. The local H’mong tribe from the hillside, from early morning, roasts smoked sausages, dried beef, and sticky rice in bamboo tubes on open fires, making the stomach rumble. I had tried H’mong dishes the previous evening with Saigon beer (totaling 80K VND – 3.15 EUR), but for breakfast, I was on the lookout for someone who could prepare an omelette. This European preference can be a challenge, as locals usually have Pho Bo, Bun Cha, or some sort of porridge in the morning (I didn’t try the porridge, not a fan). Fortunately, I found an omelette in a guesthouse (I didn’t catch the name) with a creaking wooden terrace on the roof, offering a splendid view of Ta Xua.

Many travelers stay in Ta Xua for two nights because there’s no shortage of walking trails for serious hikes. One must-see destination is the Dragon’s Back. A narrow, sometimes very bumpy 12 km road with fantastic views leads there. The Dragon’s Back itself, or spine, is a trail along a mountain ridge resembling a dragon’s back. At the base of the ridge, there are guesthouses and wooden pavilions where it’s worth ordering a cup of strong Vietnamese coffee with sweet condensed milk and enjoying the majestic mountain panorama. I spent a good hour on one terrace, captivated by nature. A gentle breeze swept away any residual worries and stress from back home in Lithuania, and ideas for future books began to form in my mind. Fortunately, I always carry a notebook and pen, as I didn’t want those brilliant thoughts to dissolve into the clouds.

The journey there, sitting, and the return trip – getting to know the Dragon’s Back took over 3 hours. I barely managed to pack up and check out of the hotel by noon (Ta Xua is worth two nights). The descent to Bac Yen, where I ascended the day before, was fun and visually rewarding. It reinforced my belief that driving the same road in the opposite direction is like traveling a new road.

The stretch of QL37 is very picturesque, especially where the road ascends, revealing magical mountain valley panoramas. I stopped several times to admire the views, marveling at how corn could be grown on such steep slopes. My respect for the hardworking Vietnamese reached a ten out of ten (and I hadn’t even seen those incredible rice terraces waiting in the future).

The remaining 40 km on AH13 was a highway with buses and trucks, so I lowered my helmet’s chin guard, found a white Hyundai Santa Fe to follow, and easily traveled at 60-70 km/h to Son La. After a wrong turn at an intersection, I found the Phong Lan hotel, parked the Winner in the underground garage, freshened up, changed, and set out to explore the city. I didn’t expect that evening to be the longest and most entertaining yet!

Son La is not such a small city, with a population of 300.000 (about the size of Šiauliai in Lithuania). The streets have fresh asphalt, new sidewalks, a modern residential area in the center, and a contemporary Vincom Plaza shopping center with a local supermarket, familiar brand stores, and a Vinfast car showroom. Vinfast, Vietnam’s own car manufacturer founded in 2017, offers eye-catching, technologically advanced models. Son La uses Vinfast FV e34 green electric cars for taxis, adding beauty, order, and dignity to the city. Another highlight is the huge Ho Chi Minh Square, where I guess all of Son La’s residents, including children and elderly, could fit. As expected, there’s a monumental statue of the nation's Father with a massive stone wall carved with significant socialist life motifs.

My evening in Son La began at Quan Bia Xanh restaurant. It was hot, and I thought a few glasses of Hoi beer, costing just 10K VND (0.40 EUR) each, would be refreshing. Three men at a nearby table invited me to join them after a minute of curious glances. We drank several beers, tried various dishes, including fried cicadas with bamboo shavings and a tangy spicy sauce, and chatted about life, international friendship, and Vietnam, a country I love exploring, through Google Translate. I don’t remember their names, but they were teachers (math, physics, and PE), extremely friendly and pleasant. After three hours, they insisted on paying the entire bill, brushing off my protests with repeated ‘no no, you ma gest!’

This wasn't a one-off experience. Time and again, I found Vietnamese people to be incredibly hospitable, friendly, and kind. Even if we radically differ in our historical perspectives, political evaluations, and interpretations of events. Later, having met more Vietnamese, I realized I didn't want to convince them of the truths I believe in. They see the same things differently, and one evening over beers won't change that.